Wednesday, July 13, 2016

The Shelburne Continues Its History of Culinary Innovation

This July 4th Weekend The Shelburne Inn, of Seaview, Washington debuted a new purpose-grown Pacific Oyster from Ekone Oysters. Called the Quint, after Roberto Quintana, the chief aquaculturist on this project for Nick Jambor, of Ekone Oysters, pictured above. This will be the first time consumers are able to enjoy the Quints.
For more than 120 years the Shelburne Inn, Restaurant and Pub has been a beacon on the Long Beach Peninsula. It was the starting place on the Peninsula of Nancy Main and Jimella Lucas who went on to continue their greatness at their own restaurant, the Ark. A longtime haunt of culinary icon James Beard. And place people have turned for over a century to enjoy local, sustainable food from the Pacific Northwest.
For the last year, Executive Chef Cedar Martin and Chef Randall Hoff have partnered to continue the Inn’s great legacy of culinary innovation. Most recently they partnered with local Cheese Maker Vicki Allenback, of the Skamokawa Farmstead Creamery, who produces what Chef Randall describes as an “amazingly light, clean chevre with a slight citrus and nutty finish.” When they first tried it, they knew it was unique and fit with the kitchen’s focus on local and sustainable products. They also knew it could be used in a truly innovative way. Working with Olympic Mountain Ice Cream Company, of Shelton, Washington, Chefs Cedar and Randall developed a recipe for a Chevre, Honey and Cardamon Ice Cream. Olympic Mountain now produces it for the Shelburne. It has become the most popular item on the dessert menu.
Now, the Shelburne debuts the Quint. Seaview, Washington is less than a mile from the Willapa Bay. Long a hub for the oyster business it has always been seen by purists as one that produces an amazing oyster with a distinct and pleasing brininess with a wonderfully clean melon and cucumber finish. Ironically, almost all of the oyster production on the Willapa is focused on shucked oysters that are shipped to be used in chowders, stews and sauces. It is estimated that almost one fifth of all the oyster production in the US comes from the Willapa.
The only other significant producer of half shell oysters on the bay is Taylor Shellfish, who produce the Shigoku. The shigoku is produced using bags hung from lines that have floats on the bottom of the bags. This enables the oysters to get “flipped” with every tide. As the tide comes in the floats lift the bag until it flips over. Then the reverse happens when the tide goes out. Thus, twice a day the oysters are tossed in the bags. This movement constantly breaks off the front tip of the shell and creates an oyster that is both elegant and a perfect size for eating on the half shell.
Roberto Quintana explains that he didn’t want to copy Taylor but rather produce a different variation of the half shell oyster. A graduate of the Aquaculture program at Louisiana State University, he has worked on Quints for more than three years. The biggest difference is that he developed a proprietary methodology that “flips” the oysters far less often than the Shigokus. The result is that it is a slightly shallower oyster that is amazing to eat. The team at Ekone has done a tremendous job growing an oyster that highlights the wonderful flavor profile of the Willapa Bay.
Come out to the Shelburne this weekend and experience the first new oyster to have been introduced on the Willapa Bay in many years.
For reservations to enjoy them please call the Inn at (360) 642-2442.

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